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… Stunning Albania, Mostar´s relicts of war and the coast line of Croatia

We chose a nice little winding route leading direction Plav, Eastern Montenegro. As a group of four now, together with Stefan and Tobias; we had to find out how it will go. We thought maybe it is just a pain for them or too boring as Kerstin was still in a “training mood”. We promised each other that we will all agree immediately to split again if anybody has not fun anymore. So far it was working really well and we were all in good spirits. From time to time Kerstin waved them through so they could speed up and have some fun. Half of the way to Plav there was a gravel turnoff directing to a 2.641m peak where we wanted to meet. Kerstin wasn’t sure yet if she would like to go a gravel dead end just for a view and a “nice ride”. The sun was shining and the mood was good and all the others were encouraging her – and so she went and could finally enjoy the beautiful view when we reached the top.

Actually it became clear that we worked pretty well as a group and we had a great day driving together. Later this afternoon we came close to Plav. From this point we had the option to go back to where we came from, OR to continue crossing the border to Albania… Tobias and Stefan looked at us and were explaining that they had some “ground rules” before they left for the trip. One of them was “Not to drive to Albania”… another was “Not driving real off-road tracks” (OK they departed from that rule already in Bosnia Herzegovina). After a look on the map you may reckon that behind this little border crossing there is: No tarmac. Kerstin got a little Panic-Attack. Steep twisting gravel tracks in the Albanian Alps!!! But all three boys were promising immediately that she will make it and that they will be patient and supportive and that she should not worry… We looked and smiled at each other. Let´s go. Why not!

In Montenegro you can´t be sure to find the camp spot which you saw on the map or the GPS. Pretty often it does just not exist. So was our first try. Shortly before the border to Kosovo we turned back. There was one camping supposed to be directly in Plav at the riverside. What we found was a renovated Guesthouse with a Restaurant situated next to a big meadow. We stopped, asked for an ice cream and as well if we could maybe put our tent onto the meadow. We were welcomed friendly and they showed us the bathroom facilities of the restaurant we could use. Lovely! Sascha and Tobias left for shopping while Stefan and Kerstin pitched the tents next to an apple tree and arranged a table and benches. We all had a refreshing swim in the river nearby and afterwards we were cooking and having some drinks with the view to the Albanian Alps in the background. The place we want to go the next morning J

When we had coffee and a proper self-made breakfast we were all a bit excited and everybody was maybe a bit lost in his own thoughts. Kerstin worried if she will manage it and in private hoping this little mountain border will just be closed. She was never ever driving a road like that before. And it was in Albania; just three weeks ago there were two tourists in a jeep killed up in the mountains in this area (I think we did not mention that towards Tobi and Stefan at that time). Anyhow, you never know when something like this would happen. And as Sascha would say: “The lightening hits you while you are on the toilet if your time has come”. What were Stefan and Tobias thoughts? Not sure… they were acting against their rules. I have to ask them!!! And Sascha – Sascha was probably just excited. After all; this section was on his agenda from the beginning anyhow and now he was just happy that it will happen J

The narrow tarmac road was leading towards the valley and past little farms. The border was manned and after just showing our IDs, bike-documents and a short chat we crossed it without any problems. Maybe to mention that Kerstin asked if the next 40km will be really gravel and the custom official did confirm it to her regret. The landscape was amazing. Most of the time we were driving at the same pitch what was perfect for Kerstin to get used to it and gaining more confidence. When we had breaks everybody buoyed her up and she had more and more fun. She did not recognize much about the beauty of this area as she was concentrated on the road most of the time. Sascha was calming her down via the intercom most of the time. “You are doing well! – Good on you! – Gas, gas, gas if (it´s sandy!) – All good!” and so forth. The last 10 km were really challenging for her though. Steep hairpin bends were coming up. The first brought her down, the second and the third as well – fair sharing the scratches between her and the bike but luckily without real harm, she always hopped back on the bike after everybody were helping to lift it up again (There was no choice anyhow ;). Yet there was a point she was just too exhausted, sweated, frustrated and tired, she asked Sascha to bring the bike down the next two or three steep gravel hairpins. And finally we reached the tarmac! (Thank you my dear for your patience and all of you for your support!!!) Kerstin was totally exhausted but extremely happy and proud at the same time! (Probably not only Kerstin J)

We were still in the Albanian-Alp-Region where we suddenly recognized on the GPS that the upcoming road is full of hair needle bends going up again – we counted 1, 2, 3, … maybe ten?! And then? – WOW! And a brand new street! We let Stefan and Tobi go in front and their motto was: “full steam ahead”! J They had great fun!!! On the top we enjoyed the view. But now it was slowly time to head direction Shkodra Lake where we wanted to look for a camping. Surprisingly it was really where it was supposed to be. Next to the lake with a beautiful little beach equipped with hammocks, a family restaurant and the best and cleanest sanitary facilities we have ever seen. A recommendable place. We had a swim, and later we went to get some beers and real good local food!

Not far from here, about 40-50 km is the famous top plateau Theth, and we decided to stay another night to explore the region a bit more. Theth is a wonderful village in northern Albania’s Shkodra region. Set among the peaks of the Shala mountains, Theth is isolated, and in times of snow, practically inaccessible. You can make a full round trip with hard off-road parts or as we did just a gentle ride with gorgeous views up to the top with an Alpine Restaurant. Only the last 500m are off-road and Stefan and Kerstin had a Coke together and enjoyed the stunning view to all this peaks while Tobi and Sascha left for a little fun-off-road trip. We had a wonderful day!

Slowly we all had to think of going back – direction home. We had a real good time together so far so we decided to travel together a bit longer. We crossed Shkodra the next day and we were heading into Montenegro again. There were waiting lovey little winding roads, passing mountain villages, olive fields, wild horses and forests. For the night we had a camp in the mountains next to a restaurant just before the famous bends leading down to the Kotor-Bay (Tobi and Stefan had a quick fun right down and up again just before it got dark J).

The next day we wanted to go until Mostar, Bosnia Herzegovina via Croatia and we chose again mainly side roads a very little border cross to enter Bosnia. The landscape was nice but we recognized more ruins, the war left more marks here. Nevertheless it was great. The small roads were in a pretty good condition and we all were enjoying riding here. The later afternoon it became cloudy and actually we were late. Shortly before Mostar we had a stop to check the location of a camp around Mostar and when we wanted to continue Kerstin´s bike said … NOTHING??? A second try … and it started – PUH! Now we should hurry up – it became dark already. The first camp we found was just a green field with a container on it, a not really nice woman with her daughter were sitting in front of it; they wanted far too much money from us. So we said “No thank you. We continue”. But now Kerstin’s bike was saying nothing at all anymore – silence. Oh shit. The camp-woman was smiling at us: ”Ok! Ha – now they have to stay! And I can even take more money!” But Sascha took quickly the bike and pushed it until it started again. “YES!!! Let’s get the ‘fuck out of here!!!”. Meanwhile it was completely dark and Kerstin was not allowed to switch of the bike anymore. The second camp we found was more a luxury resort and the third did not exist. We heard it rumbling and as well we saw lightning in the back. SHIIIIIITT! Finally we ended in Camp `Grotta`! A lovely little place next to a river and owned by a friendly guy and his little cat. We just made it to pitch our tents before the thunderstorm was above us and we came together in the outside bar to have a beer and eat what we could find in our bags. The next day was pouring rain and we had to check out what happened to Kerstin’s Motorbike. So we parked it under the bar-roof. Sascha contacted his mates from the AT Forum to check out what it could be. Fist suspect was a broken Battery; Sascha thought for ten seconds and said no can´t be. It´s new so it must be something else… After 1.5h he decided to just give it a check… And what to say, hmmm, it was the bloody battery! No fluid in it anymore, nothing completely dry! Upps, just listen to the guys from the forum! Sascha took it off and the owner of the place was offering to bring us to a friend with a garage not far away – and to a Supermarket as well if we want to shop some breakfast. How nice! Sascha and Kerstin jumped into his car. Within one hour we got distilled water, breakfast and left the battery in the garage to recharge it after the guy checked it. About two hours later we could pick it up again. But it was still raining, thundering, raining, lightening… Sascha fixed the bike and we spent the afternoon playing dice, drinking beer, chatting, getting Pizza… Not too bad but we were hoping to have better weather for the next day again.

Mostar is situated on the Neretva River and is the fifth-largest city in the country. Mostar was named after the bridge keepers (mostari) who in the medieval times guarded the Stari Most (Old Bridge) over the Neretva. The Old Bridge, built by the Ottomans in the 16th century, is one of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s most recognizable landmarks, and is considered one of the most exemplary pieces of Islamic architecture in the Balkans. During the Bosniak-Croat war, the city was divided into a western part, which was dominated by the Croat forces, and an eastern part, where the Army of the Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina dominated. In May 1993, Croat forces began a 10-month siege on eastern Mostar while in the western part of the city forcibly expelling the Bosniak population from their homes and killing hundreds. After the war, the ICTY accused the Croatian Republic of Herzeg-Bosnia leadership for the crimes against humanity and other war crimes during the war, including the destruction of the Stari Most. (Wiki) A visit to this town is really impressive and terrifying at the same time. The relicts of war are visible everywhere still.

The last days were running quickly and we crossed back into Croatia, following little roads until we came to the coastal road. Suddenly motor bikes were everywhere. The coastal road is nice but not comparable to the nice little roads you can find all over. We spent two more nights in Croatia while heading north and the really last two nights we spent together on a very nice little camp right at the top of Istria. Here we recalled what we experienced together, laughing, drinking, cooking and smelling the sea. We enjoyed a wonderful day on the rocks, snorkeling, drinking wine and watching a school of dolphins in the sunset! We really spent a lovely time together and now it was time to say Good-Bye. The next day Tobi and Stefan would go direction north and we direction Vienna. But we are pretty sure we meet again and maybe even driving together again. Hey you two! Thank you for these gorgeous days together, the great company, your patience with Kerstin and your positive vibes! J

Our next aim was to reach Vienna in the end of the day. One more reason why we chose to go back via Vienna and the motor-rail-train was to meet `BigTom´ in Vienna. Since many years we are in contact with him but so far we never met personally. It was time to meet `Big Tom´ who was on the road on his motorbike for years and settled (or trying to :) in his hometown Vienna now. We were really exited and when we arrived in front of his house in the evening he just arrived as well. Our train was going the next evening and the plan to make some sightseeing was not on the schedule anymore. The time was just enough to chat, exchange and enjoy the time which was given together. A big Kiss to you BigTom and we hope to meet you soon again (and your Lady as well of course!).

This time the train was leaving in time. But the atmosphere was completely different. Not only because this was the end of our little journey. While we have been on the road there was a twist in the flow of refugees and the train was packed. We shared the 6-bed cabin with some of them and there was a worriedness and anguish beside the tiredness and the joy about having a place in this train direction Germany. We were caught by surprise and took it as it was – shared our wine and cookies with them and tried to get at least a little sleep this night… But actually this is a different story.

We arrived next morning with one hour delay in Hamburg and were home in a second. A short trip – Many great days and people to remember – Pictures to view. It was a wonderful holiday time! We can definitely recommend Montenegro and we would like to see more of Albania and Bosnia Herzegovina!!! Maybe next year… Who knows!

And don´t forget: “GAS GAS GAS!!!”

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Balkan Trip 2015 2/3 – Gas! Gas! Gas! – Montenegro

November 29, 2015 Admin_tmp Leave a comment

Montenegro – Cerna Gora – A real gem for nature lovers and motorcyclists

We were wondering what we would discover in Montenegro. Culturally, scenic and not at last the quality of the roads; Kerstin’s large playground/training facility was opened.

At the beginning of the famous Kotor Bay we turned north and we wanted to reach the Durmitor National Park before the evening. Pretty soon the streets turned to twisty loops; higher and higher into the mountains. The first impression was really good and there was very little traffic. The scenery was beautiful, the temperatures pleasant and Kerstin tried to adapt to the speed of Sascha more and more. And more and more often Sascha called on the Interphone: “You have to go faster! You are going to tilt over in the curve!” Here it was again “Gas!Gas!Gas!” In Niksic we stopped for shopping and late afternoon we were close to Pluzine.

All day we were driving up-hill and suddenly Sascha became very slow and you could hear him swearing. “What’s the matter?” “I do not know! The bike is not taking gas anymore” We stopped, but actually this windy road was not really good for parking at all. Right hand side it dropped away and on the other side there were sheer rock walls. OK there wasn’t that much traffic but still cars and logging trucks were passing. We had a quick look at the bike and at each other – no idea what’s wrong! Sascha tried to start again and it was working. “Never mind, let’s go!” About one or two kilometers further the same thing… the ´Big Lady´ just stopped. “Shit shit shit! BULLSHIT!” A couple on a bike came along and disappeared behind the next turn… But they came back! Of course there was not much they could do, but at least they told us that about 700m further there is a little lay-by with a small wooden honey-sales-stall where we could safely stop. So we started one more time. The Sales-stall was run by a young boy who did not speak much English. There was a bench next to it and Kerstin had a seat for a cigarette and tried to make conversation whilst Sascha was thinking. There was an idea he had what could have happened when he took off the tank last time. Maybe the ventilation hose is pinched off? With all the gears on it would take at least 1 hour to check it. And meanwhile it was late. There was a sign at the sales-stall and it was saying ´apartment´.

In the end we found out the boy in the sales-stall was the son of the family who was renting the apartment and it was just 500m down the gravel road. It was a little valley with a church – a little bit onwards a farmyard with two houses surrounded by hives, plum and pear trees, blackberry bushes, chicken and cows. An idyllic place and the family were welcoming us with the question: “Homemade Slivovice or a beer?” Sascha said: “OK now we are talking (and to help the communication and the international friendship he said: “first a Slivovice and then two or three beers”. Before it turned dark Sascha could solve the problem as it was exactly what he thought. When he took off the tank the last time he pinched the air intake hose and there were no air coming in the tank. But why it just was not enough air in this specific moment: Karma. The AT thought it was a good place to stay, and guess what? She was right! We spent a lovely evening together and stayed in a luxury apartment with a big bed and a fridge filled with local goodies like homemade honey, milk, cheese, ham, eggs…

Maybe this little dispute between Sascha and the `Big Lady´ was just a sign?! A sign to calm down and to realize: `We are not on a run! We are on a journey!! Destiny?! Fortune?! Let’s enjoy and see what is coming along! We decided to stay one more day – why not?! The farm of Zeljko is full off fragrant flowers and embraced by aromatic meadows and orchards. Durmitor is around the corner and we can explore a part of it from here without the gear – and maybe it´s a chance for Kerstin to have the heart to try some ´different´ roads as well…

The next day we enjoyed driving along the Piva Lake. The tunnels here in Montenegro are most of the time just big holes in the rock without illumination at all, the serpentine inside were a particular challenge for Kerstin. Later on we entered the Durmitor National Park from the west taking very little roads. On our map we could see there is a steep way down to a canyon and the path was marked as unpaved, a thin dashed line only. We decided to see if Kerstin can make it. The landscape was really amazing and most of the time we were driving on an altitude of 1500m – 2000m. When we arrived at the point where the gravel should start we were facing a brand new 2m wide paved road. Not sure if it will become gravel suddenly we were going down the bends slowly in the beginning. We met a car half way and they were assuring the road was paved all the way. From now on Sascha was speeding up and Kerstin was challenged to follow – but as well she had more and more fun doing it. It is a gorgeous place to drive. You have nice little bending roads, beautiful views with steep valleys and wonderful plateaus and all this with a pleasant climate. Just before it turned dark we arrived back; perfectly happy and satisfied. What a day!

While we were having a beer with our Landlord Zeljko and his family he was telling us that there is celebration at the church next to the house, the Piva Monastery, the next day where we have to go; we were officially invited. The Monastery was built in 16^th century at the spring of the Piva river and although it was a Christian religious center, its construction was approved by the Ottoman rulers, which is an unusual rarity. In 1982, when the Piva Hydro Electric Project created a vast water reservoir, only the Piva Monastery was saved, as it was moved to a new site stone by stone including 1,500 square meters of frescoes. That sounds interesting even though the Monterey do not look that impressive from outside – it is a pretty simple construction out of natural stones. Anyhow, we will stay one more day!

When we had breakfast on our terrace the next morning the last wafts of mist were disappearing and we could hear the choral exercising for the event. It was a magic atmosphere. Those who know the band ´Dead can Dance´ can maybe imagine what we were listening to… Everybody on the farm was preparing themselves and the place became busy very quickly. People were pouring in from all the surrounding mountain villages. We were really impressed from the insight of the Monastery and the frescoes when we entered; also from the ceremony itself and the fascinating singing. About two hours later the feast continued outside. Wine, beer, slivovice and a delicious food box with a trout out of the Piva lake, beans and pastries were offered to everybody and traditional groups started to perform. We really enjoyed this experience with this entire friendly cheerful people. In the early afternoon we left for another ride (this is why we withstand all drinks that morning) and we chose a little road which was actually starting shortly behind the border to Bosnia Herzegovina and leading back to Montenegro along the Tara River. And when we stated at the border control that we only want to enter this road and going back to Montenegro they just waved us through. Truly this is a place where you do not get tired driving around and you relish every second of driving.

The next morning it was time for us to continue, we could stay there for the next three weeks easily but…. We started packing and loading the bikes. Suddenly Zeljkow was calling us: “Come down! Breakfast is ready!” The table outside was loaded with big plates of lamb, salad, fresh local bread and of course his delicious homemade wine and slivovice. This time we had a little sip for the good-bye. We banqueted at least two hours with the family and their friends and of course we left later than planned. So what? These moments are what make it unique. Thank you Zeljkow and your whole family and friends!

We finally left and we were crossing the last time the Durmitor National Park direction Tara Canyon. From here we turned to the south along the Tara River. South of Mojkovac we kept an eye out for a camping spot. There was one supposed to be in the “National Park Biogradska Gora” next to a lake. When we arrived at the spot we recognized it was loaded with cars and people. Some wooden huts were scattered in between the trees up the hills. It was Sunday afternoon and it is a place of excursions for the weekends we found out later. We asked for the campground and the arm of the ranger in the wooden block house was showing around in a wide curve. Choose one. OK! We understood: we are the only ones with a tent. As well we noticed that more and more people were leaving the place. Probably we will be alone as soon as it gets dark. We found a spot for the tent and Kerstin had a quick jump into the lake as there were no bathroom facilities except one pit latrine (after a busy weekend). But they had a fountain with fresh cold spring water! And they left as well two little light spots on. At the time it was getting dark we were prepared, sitting at a wooden table and ready to start cooking with a delicious bottle of Zeljkov´s slivocice. Then suddenly two guys on their BMW’s arrived, Tobias and Stefan from Germany. Quickly we were looking for a place for their tent and later we had time to cook and to chat away. They came via Bosnia Herzegovina, Zagreb, and just explored Durmitor as well.

The next morning we had breakfast and a look at the map together. As we were going the same direction we decided to go together for the time being: direction Plav. A corner of Montenegro in the east and neighboring Kosovo and Albania. Needless to say we clarified that Kerstin is a “beginner” and she sometimes needs more patience. No problem for Stefan and Tobias! But nevertheless Kerstin was not feeling very comfortable in the beginning while trying to follow Sascha and having two bikers on her back…

BUT – more about driving, willful intents and if we continued as a group of four you can read in the next and last part.