As we could work out a great deal with Bonny and Paul and helping them we were able to stay 4 nights in San Ignacio (thank you both again for that opportunity!). The last day we discovered the spring of the river with the kayak, we were visiting the Chaa Creek Natural History Museum (don’t miss that if you are around – just knock the door if it is not open) and had a great dinner together.
During our stay there we had the great pleasure to meet Pam and Maria. They are friends for 36 years and have been on a road trip bringing down Pam´s car from California to Todos Santos. Maria is from Tijuana so it was easy to pick her up on the way down. They are both lovely persons with big hearts and great humor and Pam invited us to pass by her place when we come to Todos Santos – so that´s where we are at the moment!
A really beautiful spot and we love to spend the time here together with Pam. Even now in the off season the town has a really nice spirit and as Pam is living here since 25 years. She knows the place, people and the surrounding very well. Pam is running an exclusive cloth shop here in Todos Santos, “El Taller” (@el_taller_todos_santos) which is right in the center on the plaza. They sell unique clothing out of handmade/ woven fabrics from tribes of India, Vietnam and Mexico. She takes us around to gorgeous beaches, hidden fishing spots and places where you get the best food. She knows not only where to get the best fresh fish but as well how to cook it – so yummi!!! Unfortunately Maria had to leave but we do have the best teacher from now on chatting with her in Spanish all the time; even though it is still challenging us (muchas gracias Maria Maria jajaja ;)
With the arrival here in Todos Santos we tried to find out which ferry is going when to the mainland. Not as easy as Baja Ferry seems to have an issue with maintaining their boats and therefore currently not going to Mazatlán. The other option would be Topolobampo which is nearly 500km to the north. But we found out that TMC is running a cargo ferry to Mazatlán. It will take about 17 hours, they do not have cabins but that´s actually the one we reserved with Pam´s help via phone for Monday the 27th. We will see if it will works out when we get there…
So long Pam hosts us in her very nice guesthouse and we try to give her a helping hand wherever is needed. She is such a great person and knows many interesting stories to tell… With her it never becomes boring! For sure it is a real great pleasure meeting her and as well Maria. Aside we practice our Spanish in the tacorias or with her gardener Ricardo (a real character!).
The summer time here is the season of hurricanes and thunderstorms. So far we were lucky more or less. On the way down here we recognized many times that it is off season; places look like ghost towns, camps are closed and beaches are empty except some locals to have a cooling jump into the water. The desert looks fantastic with the uncountable giant saguaros cactus and a high variety of succulents. But it is incredible HOT and the weather can change in a minute. In Loreto the camp which is usually visited by overlanders just closed down for the season and on the other campsite we have been the only guests. At least we did not need to worry to bother anyone while just sleeping on the tables.
The original plan was to stay on one of the beaches at the famous Bahia Conception. But there an sudden upcoming thunderstorm made us leaving the place after a refreshing swim. One of these days we headed direction east coast with the plan to stay at the the El Chorro Hot Springs. On the way we stopped in El Triunfo, a little old mining pueblo (village) where we bought real good sourdough bread with walnuts and cranberries. Marc, from California is famous for his bread and imported even a professional oven from Italy to enhance his business further. When we left the highway and drove down the gravel road direction mountains we could see the first lightnings already. But we continued and shortly and before we reached El Chorro the road became a river and a real thunderstorm came up. After an hour waiting in the pouring rain it still looked not like it will end soon and the thunder and lightning did not stop.
So we decided to get back and skip the springs. At least we got delicious bread and had a nice day riding. Inland we can see nearly every day the dark clouds and can hear the rumbling of the thunder storms. Cross fingers we will not have one of these storms when we take the ferry as they do not have cabins and we have to sleep on the open deck…
